At the time of the American Civil War the jacket was coming into the hayday of its popularity.  The Confederacy was quick to exploit this trend as it allowed them to effectively uniform their soldiers with the smallest amount of cloth possible.  Federal soldiers, likewise wanted to look their best while in the army, and the standard fatigue blouse was not very attractive, and the dress coat was far too hot for field use.  Thus, many Federal soldiers desired or were issued jackets of a dizzying variety.  Untrimmed mounted jackets, state issue jackets, and even modified fatigue blouses and dress coats were seen in all armies throughout the war.  But by far the most common of these jackets were those produced by the Schuylkill Arsenal, several hundred thousand of which were produced.  These jackets were issued east and west, and were very popular and highly desired by the men in the ranks.

    Based on the original in the Troiani collection, our reproductions are made from only the most authentic broadcloth available, and are lined in the body with patterned domet flannel, and the sleeves with either muslin or cotton shirting.  The chest is quilted, much as in a frock coat, and the collar is closed with a hook and eye.  The functional cuff is closed with two small federal eagle buttons, and each coat has an 11 small federal eagle button front.  The entire interior perimeter is lined with a broadcloth facing, and overcasted  to close the lining...this means that there are literally thousands of visible handstitches, (and hundreds of non-visible ones) for every coat!  

    Our coats come in Standard Grade only, but we may be offering entirely handsewn versions in the future.